At The Foot of the Sagarmatha - A trek to the Everest Base Camp: Part 1
"Why do you have to punish your body and mind to that extent?" people question me when I start on a trek. "You've got two weeks off...why don't you vacation like a king?" they ask. I ask myself the same lingering question probably during the last meal before leaving for a trek and as I tuck in to that cosy bed of mine the night before the trek. These questions would always answer themselves....one way or the other.
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Day 0: Bengaluru - Mumbai - Kathmandu (1400 m)
Journeys to the Bengaluru airport have definitely become laborious and eventful. Late Saturday night traffic and non-seasonal rain made sure that my first decision on the trip - that of leaving five hours early to the airport - was handsomely vindicated.
There still was a good couple of hours before I boarded the flight to Mumbai as I ordered Misal Poha from the eaterie near the gate. As the food induced lethargy overpowered my travel anxiety, I enviously noticed those travellers who were bold enough to use a bedspread/shawl and lie down on the airport floor. Curling uncomfortably on a chair, I tried to while away the remaining hour or so before departure.
The sunrise at the Mumbai airport was a sight to behold. It seemed to suggest that my trip was well and truly underway! The South Indian breakfast was an easy way to lighten my wallet. It was as though I was paying for the view of the runway rather than the breakfast. (Paying for views was the whole point of this trip!)
The fascinating part of flights is how a journey of two hours can transport you to a different land and different culture altogether. There is no transition. You sit in a black-box and when you come out of it, the world is totally different! The people are speaking a different language. The landscape looks different. I've never ceased to be in amazement of this phenomenon. And so it was when the flight landed in Kathmandu at around half-past noon, Nepal time. I adjusted the time on my wrist watch to reflect the local time. Getting a pre-paid SIM card was the first item on my agenda. On other treks, my family would be convinced that I'd be out of network coverage for a week. Here, thanks to the literature available about the trek and the promise of network on the trek - I was almost ordered to have a local SIM card as soon as I landed in Kathmandu.
Our ride (two more trekkers of our group joined me at the airport) to the hotel was already present at the airport. That the receiving party chose to garland us as part of Nepali tradition was a warm gesture. It was lending a certain colour to the trip already! We were hosted in Hotel Marshyangdi in Thamel. Thamel is where most trekkers and foreigners put up. There are plenty of outlets selling trekking gear and paraphernalia throughout the area. From cheap goods for the budget shopper to proudly claimed "first copies" of popular brands, Thamel seems to have it all. Not to mention the numerous cafes and resto-bars that would be ideal celebration points for a "have a safe trek" party or "welcome back from a successful trek" bash. It was here that we first got acquainted with the "Daal Bhat" - the carbohydrate rich Nepali power food that is the staple dish in the region.
Our agenda for the rest of the evening was clear. We would be briefed by Mr. Nethra- our local manager. Then make some last minute purchases and retire for the evening. We would start to Ramechap at 2 AM in the night.
The highlight of Mr. Nethra's briefing turned out to be the introduction to Lakpa Sherpa - our guide for the trek and an Everest Summiteer. Needless to say, some of us were more curious about his Summit expedition than what lay in front of us. That would have to wait, as Nethra and Lakpa talked about weather, oxygen, acute mountain sickness (AMS), diamox, importance of hydration - care and caution seemed to be the mantra of the meeting - and it reined in our enthusiasm. To succeed, we'd have to approach the trek like a test match, not a T20.
Day 1: Kathmandu - Ramechap - Lukla - Phakding (2610 m)
We reached Ramechap by 6:30 AM for a flight that was supposed to take-off at 8 AM. However, it was only by 11 AM that we were finally issued boarding passes for a flight that was aptly called "Summit Air". I've been on these vibrating-noisy-congested 16 seaters before. Yet I could sense my nervous excitement as the engines revved and the flight picked up speed on a short runway before taking off at the end of it.
Ramechap to Lukla is a 18-20 minute flight. Just as we were getting used to the beautiful transition of the green hills to the white mountains, the flight touched down at Lukla. We disembarked at the "Tenzing - Hillary" Aiport. All Everest Base Camp treks, Summit expeditions and multiple other treks and expeditions start from Lukla. Needless to say, Lukla is called the "Gateway to Everest". I already felt I was on sacred land. Treading the path of legends.
After a short stop at "Mera Lodge" for lunch, we finally started our hike - a moment that we'd imagined for months now and anticipated ever since we landed in Nepal. The beginning of the hike is a paved descent complete with steps. I was almost surprised to see that there was no "trail" but a proper path. As we hiked we encountered almost a procession of fellow hikers - and all of them were on the base camp trail. And throughout the path from Lukla to Phakding were cafes, lodges and teahouses that could serve anything from tea to vodka; from Daal Bhat to French Fries to varieties of meat. Over the next couple of days I realised that difficulty and altitude notwithstanding, this trek is globally popular. The popularity explained the facilities available enroute. Especially when hiking from Lukla to Phakding.
As we walked to Phakding, we saw our Sherpas briskly walk past us carrying weights of more than 30 kilos per person. Most trekkers offload their luggage to Sherpas while carrying a day-pack with essentials like water, snacks, raincoats and emergency medicine. We were astounded as they carried these weights not only at 2,500 m but also in the later parts of the trek at heights of 5000 m plus. We also met our first "Jhopke"s. A Jhopke is a crossbreed of a cow and a yak. It is used to ferry loads between towns/villages along the trek route. I spent a lot of time on the trek trying to correctly discern between a Yak and a Jhopke. What was most striking though, is the sweet sounding bell tied to their necks. These bells have different sizes and frequencies and apparently help the owner locate an animal that has strayed away from its track.
After a hike that lasted about three hours and nine kilometres, we arrived at Phakding. A town located 200 m below Lukla in terms of altitude. The decline had been gradual and the first day enthusiasm had seen us through. I had a mild headache that threatened to get severe soon. I was aware that it was because I'd spent two nights with hardly any continuous sleep. I curled into bed for nine hours of uninterrupted sleep. The Everest base camp was 9 kilometers nearer, now!
Day 2: Phakding - Namche Bazaar (3440 m)
The day's departure was set at 7:30 AM. We were mentally prepared for a longish hike. But what we didn't expect, was the pitter-patter of rain even as we stepped out of our stay. Well, unless the rain was life-threatening, the trek would go on. We removed our raincoats from our day pack, heaved a determined sigh and started the day's trek.
The initial part of the hike didn't have a pattern. We walked along the Dhudh-Kosi river. Upstream. The name is apt and the water itself is as white as milk. The human "traffic" along the route was again conspicuous. Especially after we entered the "Sagarmatha National Park". It was as though people had gathered for a fair and not a trek. Greetings and small conversations with fellow hikers, often beginning with a "Namaste" became the norm. Most of these conversations never went beyond "Where are you from?" and "Which is your trail?". As the trek grew more arduous, I coined a term for these hikers, calling them "momentary companions" - offering their smile, encouragement or just acknowledging that their hearts are racing just as fast as yours or their legs are giving way just like yours.
After a good 4 hours of hiking, we reached the village Jorsalle. We ordered lunch here and relaxed for about 90 minutes. It was amazing how the weather showed multiple hues in this time. The rain stopped, the weather got warm, the sun gave us a glimpse from behind the clouds, disappeared as the clouds won the tussle and it started raining all over again! All this while we finished a plate of Daal Bhat!
We started our post lunch trek, resigning ourselves to the wet weather, our stomachs full and our spirits buoyant. The intensity of the trek took a different turn now. We walked along a seemingly flat trail for the next thirty minutes. And in front of us, at about four hundred feet high, stood the Hillary bridge. We'd crossed multiple suspension bridges on this trek since Lukla and would cross some more in the latter part of the trek - but the Hillary bridge was definitely the scariest bridge crossing in the entire trek. With the rain and the roaring river flowing beneath, I couldn't muster the courage to look sideways or down and simply jogged across praying that the bridge didn't give way!
From that point, started the third toughest ascent - in my opinion - of the entire trek. The trail was no longer paved, but muddy and slushy. As the route wound upwards, we took a pause at every turn to take a few deep breathes and stabilise our heart rate. It was a marathon ascent and in about one hour, we'd gained enough altitude that made the Hillary Bridge look like a speck in the landscape and not the monument it had seemed up close.
We climbed further and both the bridge and the river disappeared from view. We were now trekking on a path with the hill on one side and conifers on the other. The change in view didn't bring about any tangible ease in the ascent. As expected, we soon started asking our guides the standard question "how far is Namche yet?" and invariably received a standard reply "we are almost there..." which we knew was a euphemism for "just keep hiking...you've signed up for it!". About two hours after crossing the Hillary bridge - that seemed an eternity - we reached a checkpost that indicated the start of Namche Bazaar.
Knowing the day's destination was close definitely bolstered our spirits. But what made the day's hike worthwhile was the first look of Namche Bazaar. I'll never forget the moment I took a turn at a bend and the town suddenly appeared in front of my eyes, as though I was entering a different world altogether. Nestled at roughly 3500 metres above mean sea level this town is a true Himalayan marvel. I'd seen pictures and visuals of this town in movies and the Internet, but I was awestruck to behold this town in reality.
Our hotel for the next couple of nights was the "Green Tara". Green Tara is a mountain goddess in the region. We'd gained about 850 metres (roughly 2500 feet) during the day. The trek, specially the ascent after Hillary Bridge, was reiterating that the mantra for the days to follow was patience and perseverance. The acclimatization day tomorrow provided us just the platform to muster these virtues.
Day 3: Namche Bazaar (3440 m) - Acclimatisation Day
The clouds and rain didn't let up today as well. The start to the day was relaxed, knowing the agenda was just a small hike to acclimatise. We had to trek to a view point about 20 minutes away, gaining some height - probably a couple of hundred feet. And we immediately realised the effects of altitude. We were panting at almost every step. The effort along with the rain did dampen our spirits a little. The cloudy weather at Namche meant that the trip to the view point didn't have any scenic value. There was some compensation though, as we gazed open mouthed at helicopters that were flying to higher points on the trail.
The most interesting part of the day was our visit to the "Everest Museum". This has been built on the same land on which the first successful expedition in 1953 had camped. The museum has traditional objects that were used or continue to be used in households of the region. In a second hall were pictures of climbers, expeditions, press articles - an abundance of information that inspires you to dream about climbing the highest peaks in the world. Mountains stand tall and high. What rivals their height is the depth of the indomitable will of man to be at their summit. What I realised in the museum though, is that mountaineering is not adrenaline. It is a slow game of attrition where you learn to survive against the challenges the mountain throws at you. What matters most, is not getting to the summit - but coming back safely to tell the tale.
We came back to the Green Tara for a well earned lunch. We were instructed to not sleep in the afternoon. So we resorted to a couple of games of bluff. As the afternoon drifted to a lazy evening, the weather got murkier. Trekkers who arrived from Phakding today were drenched in rain. I decided to buy a fleece jacket from a shop where the lady remarked "This jacket is 4000 Nepali. But I give you at 2400 Nepali because Indian and Nepali are brothers!" I'm sure she still managed a handsome profit - but was appreciative of her gesture all the same. The rain was no longer steady. It was pouring. "Let the skies empty during the night.....so we have clear weather in the morning!" we prayed.
Day 4: Namche Bazaar - Tyengboche (3860 m)
It was as though someone up there listened to our fervent prayers! The rain had abated by the morning. There were even patches of blue sky. The puddles had more or less disappeared.
The immediate ascent in Namche that was the beginning of the hike, seemed a lot easier today. We were pleased with the way our bodies had acclimatised. This along with the prospect of clear weather bolstered our spirits. Infact, thanks to the weather, most groups we passed along the trail seemed to have a spring in their stride.
The first part of the day was a rather flat trail. We were blessed with some excellent views of the forested hills with the Dhudh Kosi appearing like a slithering silver serpent, thousands of feet below. We spotted our first snow clad mountains on the trek, the most prominent one being the Kusumkhang Ru. Our eyes and hearts, yearning for some view of the white mountains stirred mildly at this first sighting.
The nature of the trail allowed me to pick our guide's brain and ask him about the numerous varieties of flora that appeared on the trail. There were pines, junipers, orchids, rhododendrons and flowers of different hues and colours. What struck me though, was this plant that's called the "Old Man's beard" -that grew on tree barks and twigs - probably because it was easy to spot and seemed to thrive in today's trail. Wikipedia now tells me that this is a type of lichen. We also spotted Himalayan Tahrs that stood on the edges of cliffs and kept watch on us from their vantage point.
About 30 minutes away from our lunch point, we got into an almighty descent that was steep and sudden. Any descent, is easy on the heart but tough on the knees. The irony of this descent, though, was that we would have to gain the same and height and more post lunch to reach Tyengboche. A small part of our lunch conversation at Phungi Thanga was reserved for venting out this frustration. While we got acquainted with chapatis made from maida and mountain chilies during lunch, we realised the weatherman's kindness was in short supply. It was time to get our raincoats out, all over again!
What followed was the second toughest ascent on the trek. Again, the trail was the least of our problems. But we were gaining height rapidly and at every curve. We had spent the spirit the clear weather of the morning had bestowed and had to drum up every ounce of determination for the next ninety minutes. This is where I believe trekking tests us. To be able to keep hiking and climbing everyday for days together without quitting. When the weather is good, the views are beautiful and the trail is innocuous, it's a breeze. But when the weather turns against you and the trail gets demanding is when you need to "show up!" And on this trek, we had to show up almost every day till now one way or the other!
We reached Tyengboche by three in the afternoon. Our stay was right opposite the revered Tyengboche monastery which is the largest in the region. Our guide told us that trekkers on expeditions to the Summit seek blessings from the chief priest at this monastery. We were curious to watch the service at the monastery but were late to arrive. We visited the monastery nevertheless and spent some time in sitting in silence.
Day 5: Tyengboche - Dingboche (4410 m)
In hind sight, this was the easiest day of the entire trek. We did gain more than 600 m during the day. However, most of that was done gradually and without excess strain. With Dhudh Kosi left far behind and below, it was now time for us to walk along the Imja River. The day gave us a lot of time to enjoy views of forests on the other side of the Imja. We passed by multiple smaller settlements viz. Debuche, Pangboche. Our guide Lhakpa told me that "Che" means a group of lakes.
As is typical with me on treks, I was the one trailing in our group and the assistant guide Sona chose to hang back with me. He talked to me about his earnest desire to migrate to Saudi Arabia to earn more money. When I asked him about the jobs he would fit in in Saudi, he mentioned he could get trained as a waiter in a hotel or as an employee in a mall or store. He apparently had trekked to EBC as a porter initially and over a decade learned enough to become a guide. The money these guides and porters earned never seemed enough, because as we climbed higher, even the modest Daal Bhat cost atleast 700 Nepali. And this charge was the same for both Sherpas and trekkers. I told Sona that I always thought Sherpas were not required to pay so much for a meal because they were locals and the hotels and lodges were considerate to people of their own. Sona confessed that owners of these lodges were not exactly the best people to deal with. Infact, the owner of our stay in Tyengboche had denied porters entry to the common room of the hotel. On the one hand, the trek was showing me how Mother Nature had created mountains, rivers, trees, animals and humans with brush strokes filled with artistry, adaptability and affection. Yet on the same trail, I was also discovering that the harsh realities of life and livelihood that sustained us and ate away at us at the same time were the same - irrespective of whether you are at 40 m or 4000 m.
As we trekked higher that day, there was a visible change in the landscape. The trees and shrubs soon disappeared. Our path was now a riot of colour from small plants and moss that grows on rocks. I wish I had someone well versed in plants and geography to figure the right jargon and names of the myriad vegetation I saw on the trek.
At around two, we could see Dingboche in our horizon. The second largest settlement in the region after Namche, this town is equally well equipped for trekkers to acclimatise and spend two nights in relative comfort. Our stay was called "Yak Lodge" - telling us implicitly that we'd reached heights that the Yaks call home!
Day 6: Dingboche (4410 m) - Acclimatisation Day
It was decided that we would have a relaxed acclimatisation day with a short ascent and lots of hydration. At this height, it seemed as though we'd left the clouds and rain below. The day started with the astounding Ama Dablam right in front of our lodge. From our vantage point on the hike, we could see an entire range of mountains comprising the Island Peak, Ama Dablam, Kangthega and Thamserku and multiple others. I'm sure it sounds alien and disconnected for those reading this at home - but these names and mountains are an integral part of the journey as you trek towards the coveted base camp. Even on the trek it was overwhelming to see people - specially westerners - sit down after a trek and makes notes for the day, maps spread wide on their dinner tables.
We well and truly put our phones and cameras to good use today, clicking away, capturing the mountains, ourselves, ourselves and mountains, the town below, the sun and clouds above. For once, the courtship between the mountains and us was shaping up towards a meaningful relationship. Our persistence was reaping its first rewards. While returning from the hike, Pasang (Lhakpa's son) and I did a bit of a plastic clean up, picking up bottles, chocolate wrappers and covers. It was for me a tacit way to show this kid that he needs to be conscious about Nature and protect the mountains that are his source of livelihood. And a small gesture of thanks from my end to the mountains!
.......Continued in Part 2
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